Wednesday 27 July 2016

Important Geographical Indications of Gujarat and Jammu & Kashmir


1. Tangaliya Shawl

A Tangaliya Shawl is a handwoven, GI protected shawl and textile made by the Dangasia community from Schedule Caste in Gujarat, India. The 700-year-old indigenous craft is native to the Surendranagar district, of Saurashtra-region of the state. Traditional variations like Ramraj, Charmalia, Dhunslu, and Lobdi are woven in village clusters of Dedara, Vastadi, Godavari and Vadla within the district.

The textile is usually used as shawl and wraparound skirt by women of the Bharwad shepherd community of Wankaner, Amreli, Dehgam, Surendranagar, Joravarnagar, Botad, Bhavnagar and Kutch area.


Tangaliya as the name suggests is derived from the word Tangalio meaning the lower part of the body. Tangaliya was traditionally a 10 by 4 cloth which was draped around the waist. However due to loom size constraints the cloth was woven 20 by 2in size and then cut in two parts and joined together to form a 10 by 4 shawl.



2. Kachchh Shawl

The shawl is woven with traditional Kutchi motifs and is processed on handlooms largely in Bhujodi, a village of Kutch.

The weavers of shawl in Kutch, who are originally from Western Rajasthan, say there is a 500 year old history in the region linked to it. They are called Meghwal Wankars (weavers).


the Meghwal community from Rajasthan migrated to Kutch, bringing with them the art of handloom weaving. Traditionally, the weavers used hand spun yarn provided by Rabaris, a nomadic community of sheep and goat herders. But among the Meghwals, the Marwadas developed a style of weaving, which provided the Kachchh community with blankets, cloth and traditional dress fabrics.





3. Kutch Embroidery

The Kutch Embroidery is a handicraft and textile signature art tradition of the tribal community of Kutch District in Gujarat, India. This embroidery with its rich designs has made a notable contribution to the Indian embroidery traditions. The embroidery, practiced normally by women is generally done on fabrics of cotton, in the form of a net using cotton or silk threads. In certain patterns, it is also crafted over silk and satin. The types of stitches adopted are “square chain, double buttonhole, pattern darning, running stitch, satin and straight stitches”. The signature effect of the colorful embroidery sparkles when small mirrors called abhla are sewn over the geometrically shaped designs. Depending on the tribal sub groups of Rabari, Garasia Jat, and Mutava involved with this craft work many hand embroidered ethnic styles have evolved. These six styles: Suf, khaarek, paako, Rabari, Garasia Jat, and Mutava.

This embroidery product of Kutch has been registered for protection under the List of Geographical indication of the Trade Related Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) agreement.


History of the Kutch Embroidery is traced to the 16th and 17th centuries when people migrated from the countries such as Afghanistan, Greece, Germany, Iran and Iraq to Gujarat. It is also said that cobblers known as Mochis were trained in this art form by the Muslim sufi saints of Sindh. The art form became a vocation for women of Kutch not only to meet their own clothing requirements but also to make a living, in view of severe dry and very hot conditions of Kutch. It became a generational art with the skills taught from mother to daughter. They embroidered clothes for festive occasions and to decorate deities and to create a source of income.



4. Patan Patola

Patan Patola the ancient art of double ikat weaving in western Indian state of Gujarat. The Master wevers from the Parmar Family are carrying forward this tradition of Patan patola saree, rajkot patola saree, patola silk saree.









5 Surat Zari

The Zari industry of Surat is one of the oldest handicrafts whose origin can be traced to the Mughal period. The history of the 'zari' (gold embroidery) industry of Surat dates back to the Mughal period. Surat is one of the biggest and most significant Zari manufacturing centres in India. Zari is embroidered into silk fabrics in order to create beautiful and intricate patterns. Zari adds luster and grandeur to the silk fabric, thus transforming the garments woven from it, very resplendent.


The principal types of products are real gold and silver threads, imitation gold and silver threads, embroidery such as the 'Chalak', the 'Salama', the 'Kangari', the 'Tiki', mainly the Ring and the 'Katori' for modifying in the Kinkhab (cloth of gold) and the Zari border weaving, embroidery, laces, caps, turbans, saris, and blouse pieces. Gold and silver threads are commonly used for weaving the 'kinkhab'. 


6 Sankheda Furniture

A craft tadition so deeply inherent in the collective identity of the practitioners, that their town is named after it. Sankheda, a small town in the eastern region of gujarat derives its name from sanghedu the for the lathe in the gujarati.


Lacquered turned wood furniture with hand painted motifs and traditional method of ornamentation , popularly known as sankheda furniture is thought to have been produced here from about 1855. In this town, about 80-100 families belonging to the kharadi-suthar community are involved in this craft giving them a strong sense of community identity and continuity. 


7 Gir Kesari Mango


The famous saffron-coloured Kesar variety of mango, largely grown around the foothills of Girnar mountains in Gujarat’s Junagadh district, has got global recognition as ‘Gir Kesar’ mango after being granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag.

The Kesar mango is the second variety of mango in India to get GI registration after the Dussheri mango variety grown in Uttar Pradesh.





8 Bhalia Wheat

Bhalia, a long grain wheat variety rich in protein and grown under conserved soil moisture conditions in Bhal region of Gujarat.



















Jammu and Kashmir:-



1.  Kashmir Pashmina

Pashmina shawls are hand spun, woven and embroidered in Nepal and Kashmir, and made from fine cashmere fibre.


The wool comes from changthangi or Pashmina goat, which is a special breed of goat indigenous to high altitudes of the Himalayas in India, Nepal and Pakistan.







2. Kani Shawl

Kani means wooden bobbins or small sticks. Shawls are woven into intricate patterns, with the weft thrown across before coloured threads are woven in on a meticulous, coded pattern drawn by a master craftsman. It is woven with pure pashmina yarn in a natural, almond-coloured base or in cream with multicoloured floral patterns, creating a striking offset. Coloured Kanis are woven too, in hues such as red, blue, green and ochre. Kani is the softer version of Jamawar—the latter are long pieces of cloth woven in the same technique. A plain pashmina shawl takes between a fortnight and a month to weave, but one Kani with all-over floral work takes a year if two artisans work on it for an average of 10 hours a day.

While historians like Janet Rizvi think the craft developed in Kashmir, there are references to outside influences during the time of Shah-e-Hamdan, a Sufi poet and prominent Muslim scholar from Persia who came to Kashmir in the 14th century. Among his followers were shawl weavers, carpet-makers, potters and calligraphers.

Kani shawl patterns—vases, creepers, floral designs—can be seen on engravings and hand-painted interiors of the Shah-e-Hamdan shrine. Located in Shamswari, on the banks of the Jhelum in old Srinagar (sheher-e-khas), this is one of the state’s oldest mosques. 


The Kani shawl, which got GI (Geographical Indication) status in 2008, is one of the most complex Indian weaves.


3. Kashmiri walnut wood carvings

the raw material used for the fine woodcarving of kashmir is obtained from walnut tree locally known as 'Doon Kul' and is cut only once it matures to an age of 300 years. This wood is considered very special for number of qualities; it is available only in kashmir in india, the wood is hard and durable, it is close grain and even texture facilitates fine and detailed carvings work. Pahalgam and sonmarg in kashmir are homes to some of the oldest groves.

Wooden artefacts of the walnut have huge demand in india and in foreign countries.


4.  khatamband

Khatamband is an art of making ceiling, by fitting small pieces of wood (preferably walnut or deodar wood) into each other in geometrical patterns. The process is not done through machines but is painstakingly hand crafted and that too without using any nails. 

Processed wood is cut into panels and fixed onto the ceiling in floral and geometrical designs. The story of the origin of Khatamband in Kashmir is interesting.

It is believed that Khatamband was brought to Kashmir during the 14th Century by famous saint Shah-i-Hamdaan who visited the Himalayan valley along with many followers that also included Khatamband artists from Iran. These artisans passed on this art to local Kashmiris. Architect Bilal Sheikh says, “Khatamband got popular in Kashmir because of its beauty and quality of insulation. The Khatamband is entirely made of wood and it preserves warm internal temperatures during the bitter winters of Kashmir". Later, Mirza Hyder Douglat worked hard in spreading the art throughout Kashmir. A finished ceiling comes alive in unique geometrical patterns. With hardly any nails used, this ceiling can easily be dissembled and re-assembled at another place.


Khatamband used to be the domain of shrines, palaces, houseboats and royal houses, but now, every other person wants it for their house.



5. kashmiri papier mache:-

Kashmir papier-mâché is a handicraft of Kashmir that was brought by Muslims from Persia in the 15th century. It is based primarily on paper pulp, and is a richly decorated, colourful artefact; generally in the form of vases, bowls, or cups (with and without metal rims), boxes, trays, bases of lamps, and many other small objects. 





These are made in homes, and workshops, in Srinagar, and other parts of the Kashmir Valley, and are marketed primarily within India, although there is a significant international market.

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